When working with sheet metal I know my limitations.  My respect for a journeyman sheet metal worker is almost reverence.  A journeyman is one who has gone through a four year apprenticeship.

They not only know all the tools and how to work from blueprints, but their knowledge of geometry is extensive. 

A quick story:  I had an order for some copper stills (like moonshine stills).  A company was introducing a beer shampoo and thought they would like some copper stills to use in their displays.

I did fine making the round part of the still, but when it came to the cone shape for the top I was lost.  I had a sheet metal book that told how to do it, but I couldn't get it to come out right.

A coach for one my son's Little League team was a sheet metal worker.  I asked if he could help me.  He came over to my shop one afternoon and within about ten minutes had the cone marked out, meaning that I only had to cut the copper on the lines he had drawn.

I didn't attempt to follow his example.  I used what he had done as a pattern for the rest of the copper stills.

Incidentally, these were non working stills. 

My sheet metal work is very minor.  I only have the skills to do what I need to do to build a particular piece of sculpture.  If I really need to learn a new technique, then I'll take the time to learn it.  The exception is if it is too far beyond my abilities or the sheet metal tools that I have.

The tools I use are quite simple starting with a pair of sheet metal shears or aviation snips. 

Below is an inexpensive (about $25.00) 18" sheet metal brake.  To "brake" a piece of sheet metal is to bend it at a sharp angle.  The total length. that it can bend is 18".  I've modified this brake to fit my purposes. Although it is an inexpensive tool, I have used it many times over the years.

As you can see I can make a sharp angle bend to whatever degree I want,  whether it be 30, 45, 90 degrees or anything in between.

Hand Seamer

For smaller pieces of sheet metal I use this hand seamer,  Here I am making the towels for the side of the golf bag.

This Foot Shear I showed in another section.  This is convenient for cutting larger pieces to size.

12" Three in One Sheet Metal Tool

This is an interesting tool.  It allows for three operation within one tool.  Sheet metal rolling, shearing and braking.

I do find this machine challenging.  When I get it set up to do one operation such as rolling, then I seem to have to spend considerable time getting it set up to do either braking or shearing.

These also come in larger sizes, such as 30", 40 & 54". 

The 12" in the photo was a little over $100.00,  I see they have increased in price quite a bit, but if this is appealing you might wait until you find one on sale.

Not only as a brake, but a pan brake.  Meaning that there are short sections in the brake that can be removed.  A pan brake enables the braking or folding of the sheet metal on all four sides.  The example in the photo below is the bottom half of a box. 

Diamond Tip Scribe

A diamond tip scribe allows for marking metal by putting a strong line where the metal is to be cut or folded.  Don't let the word "diamond:" scare you.  I think I paid less than $3.00 for this scribe over ten years ago.

I scribe a piece of metal lightly if I just want a line to see where to cut.  If I am going to brake (bend) a piece of metal I scribe deeper into the metal.  This weakens the metal along the scribed line, making it easier to get a clean folded angle.

As I said in the beginning of this section, my sheet metal skills are rather modest 

I have learned how to do what I need to do and not much more.  On the other hand I've turned out some impressive work with just these few tools.

Currently I'm working on a "Lawn & Garden Sculpture video. I want this copper arrow to appear heavier than the 16 oz. copper it is. 

After I have folded the copper in the brake as in a photo above, I use a 1/8th" strip of steel to hammer the fold.  Hammering it over the 1/8" thick steel strip.

Using this block of steel to flatten out the fold.

Now the copper has thicker edges, giving the appearance of thicker copper yet maintaining the lightness of the copper so that it will move in the wind.

The Wheels for this tractor was done in the same way.  16 oz. copper just wasn't strong enough for these wheels.  Also, they wouldn't have appeared heavy enough for the wheels. The same with the fenders.  The front wheels are done in the same way.

As you go along you'll find this technique of folding the copper over at the edge  useful in a variety of sculptures. 

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